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I've been told that the curve of my shovel

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  • I've been told that the curve of my shovel

    wont let me cut a kerf more than an inch deep in wood. DUH! LIke I can create saw teeth on the shovel, but SOMEHOW, I can't heat up the shovel and hammer-flat enough of the blade to let me cut a kerf 2" deep. Cut 2" deep all around an 8" tree or log and you can then break it off with your body weight, There's no need to cut larger wood, but if you do, you can chop down one side of the kerf, clearing the wood out and then saw another kerf 2" deep all the way around the log/tree. Still be LOTS less work than cutting all the way thru it with just an axe, eh?

    You can't DIG with the saw and not waf with the axe, either. You can easily ruin your axe chopping dirt and hitting a stone that you couldn't yet see. With a 5 ft long handle fitted to the shovel, you can vertically chip a 1 ft ID hole down thru 4-5 ft of ice. To get thru that much ice with an axe, you'd have to cut a bowl 5 ft in diameter. I can fit a 2.5 ft oval handle to the shovel and presto, it's an axe. I can fit a right angle forked sapling to the shovel and have an adze/hoe, too. You can create an oval handle on the E tool and then it's not so hard on your hand/forearm muscles when you use it as a machete/hatchet. The 5 ft long handle of the ice-chipper makes it a stand up shovel or a paddle for the raft. A 6 ft long handle makes it a spear for defense of your shelter, or to take a large critter in the lake, swimming, while you paddle the raft out to it. Be best, tho, if you had arranged another paddle on the other end, so you'd have a kayaking sort of paddle.
    Last edited by registror; 04-30-2021, 11:58 AM.