Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

burying a travel trailer

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Badfoot
    replied
    Had a friend in texas that buried a schoolbus Badfoot

    Leave a comment:


  • shadowwalker
    replied
    I won't do into reasons here. But yes I do know about burying large objects like this. Here is exactly how some people do it. First get a trailer, they used a 40 ft semi trailer. Put cheap used tires on it at the bury site, why bury good ones. With equipment. Dig out a swath so you can toe the trailer into it. After you spray that foam insulation on every square inch of it we think it will rust alittle slower with this, tow the trailer into the pit. Push dirt under it as best you can, unhitch trailer and use creosote beams from the railroad tracks to put under the front to help hold up the trailer. Us treated wood to go the last few inches under the trailer. Leave the blocks down just holding up the trailer for added strength. You can store stuff under the trailer in water tight containers also or put dirt under for added support. Only put about 1 to 2 feet of dirt on this.
    Now you can make the entrance anywhere you want or use the two at the back. But it's best to just cover over the whole thing and remember where it's at. You can dig into it and make the entryway with just a flat metal bar and a sledge hammer if in emergency.
    Word of caution for this. Make sure there is a ladder or something to make one with inside the trailer, ha,ha. Mistake we didn't think on.

    Leave a comment:


  • langloisandy
    replied
    Conex/Weights

    Gents,

    The conex can be stacked 5+ high because the corners are designed to hold the weight. (go find a conex, see how it is made, STOUT metal on the corners, the sheet metal for the sides and roof are just rugged weather protection...

    That being said, check for the insulated ones. While the strength caveat atill applies they have 4+ inches of insulation and are made to be VERY water/atmosphere resistant.

    FYI: If you are going to buy one, bring along a PILE of smoke bombs (they actually make them for this purpose) pop them into the conex, close it up. Smoke will leak out at all the edges and show you cracks, rust perf etc. A good way to dicker down on price if you have a welder and can fix it yourself!

    I am no engineer and cannot even imagine the steel needed to buttress one for underground use. (here in the Northeast it would fill with runoff/groundwater unless perfectly sealed).

    Andy

    Leave a comment:


  • sharpshooter039
    replied
    I know a guy who buried a small school bus,he drove it into a ravine flatened the tires blocked and leveled it the covered it over, its at least 4 feet deep,he goes in and out through the rear emergency door,he did put one 6x6 beam right in the middle under a rib in the roof,he has it wired for electric and all,he uses it for his storm shelter plus he keeps all his reloading stuff in it,being buried the temp always stays about the same. It only has the one way in or out but you would walk right past it if you did not know it was there

    Leave a comment:


  • flight or fight
    replied
    Just saw a post on another site from a guy who burried a shipping container 3 years ago and has had no problems with it but they buried it only 1 foot deep. Another guy who was in afghanistan said they had some problems with cave ins over there when the containers got covered up with more than 4 feet of sand but if you used 4x4 beams every 4 feet you could cover them up to 8 feet deep.

    Leave a comment:


  • cudalyon
    replied
    Originally posted by BARRACUDABILLY View Post
    I was thinking a 36"x 36" gasketed man hole extention and cover. the septic tank has a 24"x24" "lid" for pumping it out minus the space the ladder takes up 2-3 inches. My big ol rear end needs all the room I can get. or a 4-5 foot long 24-36 inch dia pipe will work and fab up a way to seal it just above grade and under the floor of my building or container.

    I hope it will if nothing else make a good hidden root celler cool and dry storage place. I am building (putting back togather) a storage building now at my house and might bury one under it to experment around and to have a safe room here and build the "bunker" down on the farm.

    My septic tank man says he can be in and out in one day. do you think I should give him a "C" note to keep quiet or do you think that will make him tell more people?

    I agree...I was talking about this one for an escape hatch since it dogs down from the inside. Just have it a few inches below the dirt. If someone is coming in, It wouldn't hurt to have a nother way out.

    Leave a comment:


  • BARRACUDABILLY
    replied
    I was thinking a 36"x 36" gasketed man hole extention and cover. the septic tank has a 24"x24" "lid" for pumping it out minus the space the ladder takes up 2-3 inches. My big ol rear end needs all the room I can get. or a 4-5 foot long 24-36 inch dia pipe will work and fab up a way to seal it just above grade and under the floor of my building or container.

    I hope it will if nothing else make a good hidden root celler cool and dry storage place. I am building (putting back togather) a storage building now at my house and might bury one under it to experment around and to have a safe room here and build the "bunker" down on the farm.

    My septic tank man says he can be in and out in one day. do you think I should give him a "C" note to keep quiet or do you think that will make him tell more people?

    Leave a comment:


  • cudalyon
    replied
    Here is a hatch I found on ebay. It will make a good one for someone that can fit through it.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bomar...ssoriesQ5fGear

    Leave a comment:


  • BARRACUDABILLY
    replied
    You Guys Almost Have It Figured Out

    Buy you a "tall septic tank 7 to 8' tall you might have to call your local manufacturer but all of them can make a tall septic tank. Dig your hole set the tank in paint it with waterproofing paint "lots of it and get the good stuff too" have the hole dug out 3-4 feet larger than the tank, two reasons to be able to get around and to paint the thing. and oh paint the bottom before you set in in the hole also, real fast while it is hanging off the backhoe. place some drain tile pipe around the edge of the hole (pipe with holes in it) back fill with large gravel or stone.

    Ok if you are still with me attach a 4" pipe to the "inlet" of the box run to above grade and cap. buy or fab up a man hole entrance cover up to grade and cap. cover the rest of the tank with dirt. Its small but its a safe cheep underground bunker. and now you have a container deveivered and set up on top of your "hidden" bunker. you can make up several ways to get from inside the container to your underground bunker and camo the inlet pipe. A fan an filter is also needed for any long term staying power. I am talking to the guy who installed the septic tank down on the farm now about this idea now and might stack them two high or side by side. what do you guys think? There is a rumor there is a set up like or similar to this in my area but it is just a rumor.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ragnar Redbeard
    replied
    I agree with you , I am sure that some modifications would be needed for support but the conealment would be worth the time engaged.

    Leave a comment:


  • Big_Saw
    replied
    Originally posted by Ragnar Redbeard View Post
    Wow, great pic. Personally I would try to bury it atleast three to four ft deeper. This would aid in the concealment and avail better protection from radiation. I would also place a simple garden shed type encloser w/ a concealed "trap door"over the entry point.
    No reason for everybody to know you have a "secret squirrel" bunker.
    If you covered it up, you'd hve to strut the hell outta the cieling with either wood or steel....4ft of dirt is a lot of weight when volume is added up...

    Leave a comment:


  • Ragnar Redbeard
    replied
    Wow, great pic. Personally I would try to bury it atleast three to four ft deeper. This would aid in the concealment and avail better protection from radiation. I would also place a simple garden shed type encloser w/ a concealed "trap door"over the entry point.
    No reason for everybody to know you have a "secret squirrel" bunker.

    Leave a comment:


  • Big_Saw
    replied
    Originally posted by Ragnar Redbeard View Post
    For a cheap bunker couldn't you just buy a junked school bus and strip it out and remove the motor and whatever else. Dig a hole and put the bus in using a tow truck and then cover it. I would think that you could make the rear door as you access. I would suppose that there is a lot of room once all of the seats are removed. Just an idea....
    You mean like this?

    http://www.jamesspann.com/blogpix/re...rm-shelter.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • lazer128
    replied
    Make sure you close all the windows! :eek:

    Leave a comment:


  • Ragnar Redbeard
    replied
    For a cheap bunker couldn't you just buy a junked school bus and strip it out and remove the motor and whatever else. Dig a hole and put the bus in using a tow truck and then cover it. I would think that you could make the rear door as you access. I would suppose that there is a lot of room once all of the seats are removed. Just an idea....

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X