Best Fighting Knife recommendations?

[hazenoff]

Greetings all,

I was wondering if I could get some input on what everyone here would recommend as the ultimate fighting knife. I'm not looking for a knife that is anything LESS than full tang, aka no *survival knives* that break or separate from the hollow handles. I'm looking for your personal recommendations, and hopefully some useful input from people who have had to use these in the field.

Again, I'm looking for utility, and rugged design, over pricey custom made blades.

[Zombie Axe]

Hazenoff,

Since you are close to Hickory area, go visit Big C Sales (a mail order knife dealer) in between Drexel and Morganton on US 70. He has several of the knives I am listing below...

A Cold Steel Recon Tanto is probably one of the best combo blades out there. Good for survival and knife fighting.

The Cold Steel Kobun is one of the quickest little fighting tantos I have played with. Not as tough as the recon tanto for survival but much lighter and quicker than it...

A good all around survival knife is the Gerber LMF II but it is not a full tang knife... The butt of the knife is electrically isolated from blade, but unsure where the tang ends... Seems like a great knife so far :)

The old stand by Ka Bar USMC knife is a great all around blade... Blade is a little long for my tastes but will git-r-done

There are many choices by the Ontario Knife folks, but a RAT is a really nice blade...

SOG makes the seal and seal pup knives, very good ones...

Just some of my picks :)

[Omegaman]

I think knives are like ice cream, every one has a favorite that they like for personal reasons. That being said one of my favorites is the Randall model 14 attack but with a boarder patrol handle. The blade is 1/4" stock 71/2" long with the full tang being 7/8" thick. To me this knife is a great fighting and survival knife. I know they are pricey but so are most real good knives. They run around $365. Now radall makes a model #1 fighter that is a great combat proven fighter but again I think the model #14 attack is a great mutli tasker because the blade is wider and thicker. I collect and repair vintage knives so I get to see what a lot of knives both custom and production will and won't do and how they stand the test of time. I just got to see a model 1 randall that was in WW2, Korea, Nam and now the Iraq passed down from father to son to a grandson. I was honored just to clean and sharpen it.

[Red]

Greetings all,

I was wondering if I could get some input on what everyone here would recommend as the ultimate fighting knife. I'm not looking for a knife that is anything LESS than full tang, aka no *survival knives* that break or separate from the hollow handles. I'm looking for your personal recommendations, and hopefully some useful input from people who have had to use these in the field.

Again, I'm looking for utility, and rugged design, over pricey custom made blades.

Go to greenfieldforge.com and take a look at the fighting knife he makes.... he also has a fighting hatchet.

Rick in NH

[beebopcop]

Greetings all,

I was wondering if I could get some input on what everyone here would recommend as the ultimate fighting knife. I'm not looking for a knife that is anything LESS than full tang, aka no *survival knives* that break or separate from the hollow handles. I'm looking for your personal recommendations, and hopefully some useful input from people who have had to use these in the field.

Again, I'm looking for utility, and rugged design, over pricey custom made blades.

All of the above are good suggestions. I tend to agree with Zombie Ax. I own and use several Cold Steel and Ka-bar knives. Randall makes an outstanding knife but unfortunately you are paying a lot for the name. I've collected bayonets and tactical knives for about 30 years now. For the combination of strength, quality, and price and a knife that has stood the test of time, I would go with a Ka-bar in any of their various designs. They have a tanto blade too if you are interested in that, it is a strong design. For the price of one Randall you could buy 10 Ka-bars and you will never be in want for a knife the rest of your life.
bbc

[kenno]

Well a Fighting knife and a Survival knife are quite different.
I spent several years learning fencing (with a rapier) and oriental sword play. I learned that they have nothing to do with knife "fighting".
I learned that one does not 'fight' (duel) with a knife any more than one 'fences' with a rapier in real life/death situations. Real fights are extremely fast and brutal with no finese beyond that provided by muscle memory and are over quite quickley.
A 'fighting knife' should be double edged and razor sharp (High Carbon steel) and not used for anything else, it needs a guard to stop the users hand from slipping onto the blade. The knife should have a slashing ability but the main attack in a 'knife fight" is a deep thrust through heavy clothing into the vitals, say a 6" blade. The old WW2 Eck Knife (not the stainless knock-off) was a good example of a excelent, basic 'fighting knife' with a full tang. Back in the day Gerber Knives, before they sold-out to the Retail Store God and went stainless, made a serious fighting knife. I bought one in 1969, before I had Loyd Hale build me a custom job. It looks like this today.
For 30 years I followed the trends in the knife maker industry. As with most things in life 99% of what is presented as fact is Baloney, it is like fishing lures, they are made to catch fisherman's wallets, not fish! 99% of the design of my old Gerber Mk2
was not an effort to preserve the lives of the GI's that pack them but a deliberate effort by Gerber marketing to sell more 'Product'. The 'Wasp Waist' blade looked great but was inherentely weak. This is a problem with all 'fighting knives' a thin cross section gives you the sharper edge, but induces an equal weakness. Go to a thicker blade and surrender the ease that the blade slips into an opponent's vitals. So, as in all things in life there is a give and take, there is no perfect answer, no ultimate resolution.
As in life; You read the numbers, place your bet, take your chances.
OR you can buy one of my knives; it has a life time gaurentee! (if you die, bring it back, 100% refund!)

[beebopcop]

Well a Fighting knife and a Survival knife are quite different.
I spent several years learning fencing (with a rapier) and oriental sword play. I learned that they have nothing to do with knife "fighting".
I learned that one does not 'fight' (duel) with a knife any more than one 'fences' with a rapier in real life/death situations. Real fights are extremely fast and brutal with no finese beyond that provided by muscle memory and are over quite quickley.
A 'fighting knife' should be double edged and razor sharp (High Carbon steel) and not used for anything else, it needs a guard to stop the users hand from slipping onto the blade. The knife should have a slashing ability but the main attack in a 'knife fight" is a deep thrust through heavy clothing into the vitals, say a 6" blade. The old WW2 Eck Knife (not the stainless knock-off) was a good example of a excelent, basic 'fighting knife' with a full tang. Back in the day Gerber Knives, before they sold-out to the Retail Store God and went stainless, made a serious fighting knife. I bought one in 1969, before I had Loyd Hale build me a custom job. It looks like this today.
For 30 years I followed the trends in the knife maker industry. As with most things in life 99% of what is presented as fact is Baloney, it is like fishing lures, they are made to catch fisherman's wallets, not fish! 99% of the design of my old Gerber Mk2
was not an effort to preserve the lives of the GI's that pack them but a deliberate effort by Gerber marketing to sell more 'Product'. The 'Wasp Waist' blade looked great but was inherentely weak. This is a problem with all 'fighting knives' a thin cross section gives you the sharper edge, but induces an equal weakness. Go to a thicker blade and surrender the ease that the blade slips into an opponent's vitals. So, as in all things in life there is a give and take, there is no perfect answer, no ultimate resolution.
As in life; You read the numbers, place your bet, take your chances.
OR you can buy one of my knives; it has a life time gaurentee! (if you die, bring it back, 100% refund!)

Kenno,
Good assessment. In a survival scenario where one may be required to bug out I think that narrowing down what one has to take with him is key. A knife is a tool, nothing more, nothing less and we have heard all of our lives about using the right tool for the right job. I think a knife associated with survival should be able to fill every bill. For example, while a dual edged dagger is an excellent fighting knife it is not going to have the heft to be a good untility knife. An all purpose knife should have a very sharp, strong point, a fuller that runs at least half the length of the blade (this is for blood letting and allows air into the wound and aids in the removal of the blade with ease). The back of the blade at the point, should be thin enough to aid in insertion in a stabbing thrust but not so thin that it compromises strength. As the blade moves toward the hilt and handle it should thicken consideralbly to facilitate the knife being used for utility cutting and hacking. Randall knives has done a very good job of this in their knives but again I find them cost prohibitive to most folks. I hope that none of us ever have to experience a knife fight. If it has come down to that it means that the ammo has ran out and the situation has gone way south. That being said we should all be familiar with our chosen blades and their capabilities. We should also be familiar with vital organs, arteries and the best way to access them. Last but not least, the handle should have a lanyard to go around the wrist to aid in hanging on to your blade in stressful situations.
bbc

[Preacher]

Knife

I would highly recommend the cold steel recon for a all around knife I bought one recently they are inexpensive and well made. Yes they are made in china but they give a great bang for the buck. It is basically a crow bar with a sharp edge it is flat ground so it splits wood easily and SHARP out of the box, high carbon keeps an edge and only needs an occasional oiling to maintain. It fits nicely in the hand as well. check it out it would will be worth your time.

[Big_Saw]

+1 Kenno & BBC....Any knife is handy as a weapon, but only a few "fighting blades" will actually be useful in survival....pick a good, quality blade that fits well in your hand, has the right heft, and balance for you, and is versatile...

[hazenoff]

Agreed, and I did ask about a Fighting Knife, not a Survival knife for a reason... to find out about fighting knives. Survival knives and Fighting Knives are two different entities, with two different uses... much like I would use a key instead of a crowbar... a fighting knife has a place in any survivalist kit, if you can handle the added weight. You can open a door with a key, or a crowbar... one was meant for the purpose, one is strong enough to rip it off it's hinges. I do get the argument, and if I had asked about the best all around survival fighting knife, then indeed it would be merited. That being said, I simply asked what was one of the best fighting blades, because I know many here have actually seen real battle in wars, etc... and would have a much more informed opinion.
:D

[Rustyshakelford]

Greetings all,

I was wondering if I could get some input on what everyone here would recommend as the ultimate fighting knife. I'm not looking for a knife that is anything LESS than full tang, aka no *survival knives* that break or separate from the hollow handles. I'm looking for your personal recommendations, and hopefully some useful input from people who have had to use these in the field.

Again, I'm looking for utility, and rugged design, over pricey custom made blades.

I recommend the Shakelford Blade.

[lazer128]

I prefer a bayonet attached to a rifle. :p

[Big_Saw]

Agreed, and I did ask about a Fighting Knife, not a Survival knife for a reason... to find out about fighting knives. Survival knives and Fighting Knives are two different entities, with two different uses... much like I would use a key instead of a crowbar... a fighting knife has a place in any survivalist kit, if you can handle the added weight. You can open a door with a key, or a crowbar... one was meant for the purpose, one is strong enough to rip it off it's hinges. I do get the argument, and if I had asked about the best all around survival fighting knife, then indeed it would be merited. That being said, I simply asked what was one of the best fighting blades, because I know many here have actually seen real battle in wars, etc... and would have a much more informed opinion.
:D

Well, then - here you go...standard issue for the company I served with....

http://www.darkopsknives.com/cgistore/store.cgi?page=/new/product.html&setup=1&ida=8&idp=3&his=0|3&cart_id=3299560.8000

[Rustyshakelford]

Well, then - here you go...standard issue for the company I served with....

http://www.darkopsknives.com/cgistor...d=3299560.8000

I still like the Shakelford blade.

[Red Diamond Ranch]

We're too old for knife fights. So, we just go "Blam" Game Over.

:D