No announcement yet.

Perimeter Alarms

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Perimeter Alarms

    Saw another post were they mentioned perimeter alarms and thought I'd post a picture of mine.

    I made these (almost 25 of them so far) myself. They are designed to take a 12ga shotgun shell but I also made adapters for a 22LR blanks. They can be used with standard 12ga shells or modified shells or flares. There are extension tubes (not shown) that screw into the front if needed to hold a shell.

    If my very life was being threatened and I was in desperation, they can also be turned horizontal to direct the blast over the trip-wire. I thought that loading up a 12 ga shotgun shell with hot pepper powder would cause some serious panic and tearing eyes.

    The pin requires 2.1 lbs to pull it.

    Currently, I'm working on creating a DIY flare so they just blast a harmless ball of burning magnesium up about 30 feet or create a fireworks sparkler effect that is harmless. They're designed to be harmless alarms but could, in a serious situation, be turned deadly.

    They sell similar types online for about $25 each.. I made about 25 of them for around $50. They can be screwed to a fence post, a tree, or a stake in the ground. They're reusable and repairable and unaffected by rain or snow. And they're small at only 4 inches long.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Alarm1.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	173.2 KB
ID:	217549

  • #2
    There are many ways for folks with a little ingenuity make their own perimeter alarms. Yours looks good and is affordable. I plan to use three types, Smoke, Flare and buckshot. Flare for longer distances, smoke for closer to property and buckshot for around the exterior of the compound. The flare is my early warning of intruder presence. The smoke is to identify how close they have gotten to the compound and the buckshot to repel boarders.
    It is better to be a warrior in a garden, than a gardener in a war!


    • #3
      Yup.. I agree, lots of ways to make them. But I think its important to point out that preppers should make them and have them done BEFORE SHTF. Make them and test them now while you have the time and materials available.


      • #4
        Originally posted by Murphy View Post
        Yup.. I agree, lots of ways to make them. But I think its important to point out that preppers should make them and have them done BEFORE SHTF. Make them and test them now while you have the time and materials available.
        I agree 100 percent. Know how and have them perfected BEFORE you need them. That is another nice part if being in the desert, a lot of land to experiment on.
        It is better to be a warrior in a garden, than a gardener in a war!


        • #5
          What if you are not home but bugging out? I use 2 types 1 is a line with a mouse trap. Very loud. 2nd I use solar motion detectors with lights gives you about 40 foot range.

          If you are at home you need some type of motion detectors with lights or with night vision gear for night time usage.


          • #6
            For the homestead, I would not bet on detectors with lights. Animals can trip them and then folks know about your detectors I prefer the I.R. motion detectors (cameras connected to alarm system).with long range I.R. lights to help with range detection. You will need night vision / Thermal if you want to be prepared for the night.

            Now I am not sure you of your statement. If you are bugging out, what are the alarms with lights for? Are you talking about a temporary perimeter setup? If you are talking about a temp setup, then the noise makers are good.
            It is better to be a warrior in a garden, than a gardener in a war!


            • #7
              I'm kind of betting on the idea that by the time I have to worry about people trying to raid my home for food or whatever, all the large animals will have long been hunted out.
              I mean think about it, if you were desperate for food, would you first risk your life to raid someone's home? Or would you kill every rabbit,squirrel and deer you saw first?

              As for night vision, I bought thermal... It can detect a human from almost 2000 yards and see a mouse in the grass at well over 200. There is absolutely no chance anyone could hide from it. Daytime or night, its all the same to thermal imaging.

              About to purchase a 2nd unit as well.. albeit a far cheaper unit than the primary. Two is one, one is none... and all that.

              I just think that by the time any of us has to really worry about people sneaking onto our property to do us harm, there won't be any more animals left to trip these things. If I'm laying out perimeter alarms, S has seriously HTF and I'm basically just shooting people on sight.

              I look at this from a perspective of two layers of SHTF. 1) the short kind where the government has communications, maybe radio is still broadcasting, local governments are still intact.. but basic services are out and the government is saying the fix will be in 30 days or something. Sure, painful for many, but most people will be fine. In a situation like this, I think good old neighborhood watches will suffice.

              2) the long duration SHTF where the government is rendered useless and totally falls apart. There is little or no communication, no answers to questions, no services, and even the cops and fire departments are offline and can't be called. Cops have gone home to protect their own families and things are deteriorating quickly.
              Now things get real and serious and it becomes an "every man for himself" type thing.

              In the rural area where I live, I estimate it will take three to four weeks before things go really bad. Lots of people around here have gardens, there are lots of deer, way too many rabbits and squirrels, and more fruit trees and grape/berry vines than I care to count., and people do a lot of canning and dehydrate food for fun and hobby.

              I'm not in the city or suburbs.


              • #8
                You are correct that there will be two different SHTF events and two different time spans. Short term, long term, sudden and slow decay. Yes we will not be able to plant nasty surprises in a short term event or during a slow long decay. The law will be useless but still in effect. The sudden complete government collapses will be when the alarms need to be installed. I really like the thermal optics but I really dislike their price range. Way out of my current budget. I will start with a night vision and a flir monocular (the cheap scout), that fits in my budget for now. Too many wants and not enough budget.
                It is better to be a warrior in a garden, than a gardener in a war!


                • #9
                  I looked through the cheap FLIR thermal unit and was not really very impressed. Its more of a $600 toy to look around your back yard or something. I think it could be useful in an urban environment where distances are measured in feet and sometimes inches, but out in the country where my driveway is as long as some runways, it would be useless.

                  The problem I have with night vision is that if someone is hiding behind a bush, night vision won't see them. Someone hiding in a ditch and only their head is showing and if they don't move, NV still probably won't pick them out. There's actually a good video on youtube that puts a night vision and thermal side by side while a guy walks around in front of them, hides behind a thin bush, etc. You get more detail with NV, but only close up, in the open, and under moon lighting. In fact, to even achieve half of what a cheap thermal does, you have to go with a full-on Gen3 White Phos tube.. and now you're up in the useful thermal range of $3000 or so.

                  Battery life is far better with NV. Thermals suck juice like football fans drink beer. But that's what rechargeable batteries are for and external battery packs.
                  I was very close to purchasing a Gen3 white phos PVS14 but bailed out and decided thermal would be a better choice for me.

                  I can see a deer in the bushy woods with the thermal that my eyes can't even see during the daylight hours (unless the deer moves). But the thermal picks it right out like the deer is glowing in the dark.. day or night.

                  Ever see how the professional snipers dress up in the local foliage and sneak around on their stomachs? They'd fool even the best NV in a second, but they'd glow like a light bulb with thermal.

                  Biggest drawback to thermal is it won't see through windows. I have to either open a window or go outside.


                  • #10
                    Murhpy, everything you said is 100 percent accurate. I currently do live in an urban environment and 200 yards is about as far as I can see, due to the many obstructions. My hope is to see them long before they can see me. Not many thugs are going to have I.R., if any. I also watched that video. Told you I am a video nut case. Once I get to my rural location, then my drone will be equipped with both HD cameras and I.R. cameras. That will allow me to spot the intruders long before they can reach my compound, miles in fact. I will be waiting for them in a place to optimize my Night Vision scope. If I should get to the point I can afford a good thermal scope, then I will be happy to jump on that band wagon. For now, there are too many other irons in the fire.

                    If the SHTF is a short or long decay situation, then I do expect any thug attacks to take place at night. i doubt tat they will expect to be seen 100 yards away. 100 yards is still within lethal range of a suppressed 22 Lr. They will not even hear eh shot that drops them. If the SHTF is a sudden collapse, then I will shift to the AR 15. It is not easy to hide in my urban environment. The Flir will do a good job of spotting them and the night vision will finish the job.

                    I had read that thermal optics ate batteries but as you pointed out, spare battery packs will solve that problem. The night vision claims to last 18 hours but I would not bet my life on it. Dark to light is not more than 12 hours, so not too worried on the battery issue. There is another advantage for the Flir, it is small and easy to carry. In an urban environment being able to move about and not appear to be armed will be an advantage. Walking down the street carry my rifles, is not a good idea. I could get shot by some good guy who thinks I am a bad guy. CCW and the flir would allow me a safer passage.

                    Once I get to the rural location then I.R. lights and I.R cameras will serve very well. Motion detectors will activate the alarms (silent type -- strobe inside the house) and then I will take it from there.
                    It is better to be a warrior in a garden, than a gardener in a war!


                    • #11
                      I just bought a drone this Christmas, its just a toy but I needed some first hand experience. I used to be big into Radio Control models and have a lot of experience with fixed wing aircraft, helicopters, boats, race cars, etc. Even had a glider for a while. The drone was very easy for me to pick up flying. Now my young child flies it as well.

                      If you saw, I had posted a few months ago about using a drone for SHTF, and after a lot of research, I've learned a few things about them.

                      1) quad-copters will be useless and possibly even a liability as they are ridiculously loud and have a distinctive high pitch sound that travels exceptionally well. People will know they're coming from a long way off... think better than 1/4 mile or more. Like a chainsaw, everyone knows what the sound is and where its coming from.

                      2) The cameras don't show much detail unless you're at a very low altitude, think shotgun range like geese flying. In SHTF, if I saw a drone within shotgun range, I'm going to take it out.

                      3) I have an SDR dongle. If you don't know what that is, google it. I downloaded some software and built a triangulation device . I might not be able to tell exactly where you're at, but that SDR dongle will tell me which direction you are. In other words, I can follow your radio signal back to you very efficiently.
                      Had my wife drive out with a 2 meter radio in her car and I was able to tell her what direction she was from the house within just a few degrees on the compass. She was 4 miles out and I pinned her location within 500 yards.

                      You mention thermal on a drone, have you looked up the prices on them? ROFLMAO. Seriously, I'd rather spend the money and buy one of those UTV 4 wheelers for $10K, and then wrap it in armor.. They do have the thermal for drones but the price is just stupid.

                      What I want to build is a fixed wing drone. Think single engine airplane that takes off via catapult and is retrieved using a large net like a catchers mitt.
                      Fixed wing drones can stay airborne for an hour or more and if you want to investigate an area, you can shut down the motor, trade altitude for airspeed, and swoop over a target area as silently as a bird. As long as you're in a shallow dive, you don't need the motor running and that means its quiet.

                      They also sell repeaters for them. A box you put on a tall structure that takes the signal from your controller and re-sends it. They operate in duplex mode just like normal ham radio repeaters and can extend the range of a drone (with FPV Video) so the drone's battery capacity is the only limitation on range.. And they're cheap at only $150 or so. Put it in a plastic box, add a motorcycle battery and small solar panel, and your drone rules the sky within a 10 to 15 mile radius.

                      This stuff sounds expensive but its not. Good fixed wing drone bodies are only around $300, add a good radio for another $300, a good zoom camera for $300, and a repeater.. you end up at about the same cost as a good quality quad-copter. And the only thing a quad copter will do that a fixed wing won't is hover in one spot. And here's the thing.. a fixed wing drone at 200 feet altitude that's traveling at 15 mph, might as well be considered hovering so far as a camera is concerned.

                      I still have some more ammo to buy, more sandbags, and a few other things.. but then I'll start getting serious about a drone.


                      • #12
                        Now I will certainly bow to you experience on R/C items. Never own one and never used one. You are also correct that the drones equipped with I.R. cameras are expensive, ranging from ranging from $6,000 to $10,000 or more. To me the ability to spot humans at a great distance (miles) is worth the money. Now for a urban environment, I would agree the costs far out ways the benefit. For my rural location, they will be a tremendous asset. Now I will take a look at the fixed wing drones. Always willing to save a buck if I can get the same results. I like the silent glide option, if I can restart the motor and fly away. Not onto the ZERO suicide tactics. With the right I.R. camera, the drone can fly high and still spot human sized heat signatures.Yes a real good rifle shooter may be able to shoot it down but then shot would also alert me to their presence.In the end, there are no perfect solution, just ways to mitigate threats. As time and technology advances, I hope the prices will drop. There is a break over point when you don't need the latest greatest and the next couple of steps down will serve the purpose well. I won't need to identify fiend or foe, anybody in my area will be foe.

                        Now I would be happy to learn your recommendations for a fixed wing drone with day camera and I.R. camera. That would certainly save me from watching videos of $20,00 0 + drones. I already did that just a few minutes ago. I did not even know there were fixed wing drone that were not gasoline driven. Checked one video and turned it off as soon as I heard the motor start, very loud. I never claimed to know everything, except to my wife, she knows better. So I look forward to you input.
                        It is better to be a warrior in a garden, than a gardener in a war!


                        • #13
                          If I lived in an urban environment, I would be heavily invested in binary triggers and body armor.. all the way to a helmet and drum style magazines.

                          I don't think the thermal cameras on the drones can see very far. Thermal cameras are limited in range, and just like regular cameras, they depend on having big glass lenses to achieve it. Ever look through a 400mm optical lens? They're freaking heavy, which is kind of the exact opposite of what you want on a drone.

                          Thermal cameras, unlike normal cameras, WILL hit a price floor that is still costly. The reason for this is that with a regular camera, you can make a big expensive lens or a big cheap lens. You see this with rifle scopes. Glass, which is basically beach sand, is cheap so you have lots of options. But with thermal cameras its a very different thing, the lens on the front isn't made of glass, its made of Germanium, and its crazy expensive. It is said that the lens on the front of most thermal cameras is more than half the cost of the actual camera. If you buy a $6000 thermal unit with a 75mm lens, you can smash the lens on the floor, pick up the pieces and crumbs, and a scrap yard will still give you $1500.
                          Kind of like a catalytic converter on your vehicle, you're not paying for the metal pipe and shell, you're paying for the Palladium and Platinum inside, and no matter how many they make or how automated the process, those materials inside are costly.

                          And unlike normal photographic lenses, the sensitivity, as it pertains to detection distance of a thermal camera, is almost totally dependent on the size of the lens. With normal camera, a higher resolution sensor can sort of make up for a smaller lens, and its true with thermal too, but not as true as the effect isn't the same.

                          Thermal will continue to fall a bit more, but don't expect it to be like consumer photography stuff or flat screen televisions. That's the difference between prices dependent on manufacturing technology (consumer cameras) and prices dependent on materials cost like catalytic converters.

                          I'm still waiting on the fixed wing drone research. Its out there and I've done some of it, but they aren't popular enough yet. Consumers want to hover above their dog and take selfies while they skate board. Fixed wing drones are more of a utility item so they lag behind the consumer toys a bit.

                          For the time, the best fixed wing consumer drone is the Patriot Disco. Check out this flight of 57km.

                          Unfortunately, I think they stopped offering it for sale.


                          • #14
                            I went to the Parrot Disco Web site and it is not listed, just parts. I really don't need high resolution I.R just detection. Any human sized heat spot is enough. Now the range of detection is a major part. If it has to fly down into shotgun range to detect, that is a no-go. Not many can shoot a small moving target a 1,000 feet away with a rifle. Now I do not understand the camera technology jargon, so I am not sure what the the maximum distance the Flir Vue Pro is capable of detecting a human sized target. If it can detect human sized targets at 1,000 to 2,000 feet, then I am thrilled. Even if the noise alerted intruders to it's presence, they will not be able to hide. The GPS coordinates captured would be enough to tell me where they are and how far away they are. That is a good warning system, considering the distance away they can be detected (drone flight range). My rural location is mostly sparse scrub brush and cactus, with a few trees. I will be at the high point (atop a ridge) so I am not worried about the flight path being followed by visual means. Intruders will not be able to see atop the ridge. Certainly not enough ground cover for intruders to escape detection. Yes, I am sure a very sophisticated group could track my signal (you could) but again, as long as I know they are coming, surprises can be arranged. I do appreciate your involvement in helping to finding the best cost effective solution. I have the time to develop a comprehensive plan, that finances will allow. It will be a few years before I relocate to the rural location. The urban situation is a totally different critter. It will all be close range and short notice. Fire power and pre-planning will determine the winners.The difficult part will be getting rid of the bodies. No way to haul them off with. It would be better if I could just make them disappear. During a SHTF event the cops will not be much interested if there are no bodies forcing them to take action.
                            It is better to be a warrior in a garden, than a gardener in a war!


                            • #15
                              You know, a lot of the research I did, probably 70% of it, was just watching the youtube videos and asking questions in forums.

                              Here's a youtube video of both the 640 and 336 version of your Flir Vue Pro

                              Scoll up to around 2 minutes to see actual side by side recordings. The altitude is just 100 (1 hundred) feet and the human target can barely be recognized until they move. And that's at only 100 feet altitude. At 300 feet?? Umm.. I don't think so.

                              And here's the reason.. Take a look at the specs, the lens is just 6.8mm. Remember what I said about the lens size? My thermal rifle scope has a 35mm lens. That's five times larger! Of course, its also the size of a damn brick.

                              Another thing to consider is "angle of view". A human is vertically shaped, from ground level, you're viewing the longest dimension of them so you see the most surface area and thus the most heat radiated. But in the sky, you're either looking forward or straight down. If you're looking forward, then both your altitude and the distance they are in front of you play a part.. but you do get the long dimension.. however, if you're looking almost straight down, then your only looking at their head and shoulders which reduces surface area and makes detection more difficult.

                              My opinion is that the Flir View Pro might have its specific applications that its good at like maybe being used in a forest fire to see where the flames are at, or possibly over water, but not for use detecting humans from a safe distance.. I just can't see it as being adequate by any stretch.

                              Imagine you fly over some humans, from the human's perspective, they hear a noise above them approaching.. The first reaction is to either hide under something or remain still with their head on a swivel. Either way, they aren't moving, and movement is what you need with such low detection levels.

                              My scope won't see you at 2000 yards unless you move.. at 1000 yards I can make out your shape as a human, at 500 yards I'd see your head if you poked it out from a ditch. And my purpose with it? To detect a bad guy at 300 to 500 yards, and most times, within 200 yards.

                              Even with a daytime fixed wing drone like I want, the camera resolution isn't good enough at 500 feet to see a human that's not moving. Sure, if I save the 4K video and put it on a large computer screen and zoom in, and if I know right where they are at.. but that's not what we're talking about. Even with the setup I'm considering, the drone has to be targeted to a specific area, dive in quietly, take the video, and get the hell out.

                              Its purpose is to investigate gunshots, smoke in the distance, or to inspect a street corner or intersection a couple miles down the road. Trying to use it to search the local area for people is just not realistic with a $1000 or $2000, or even a $3000 device. You need 7 figures for that kind of work if you're worried about someone taking pot shots at the drone. (think Military Predator drone).

                              Don't waste your money.. Just buy a good thermal rifle scope and be prepared to always have a sentry on duty with a radio, whistle, and a spare set of batteries.