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if you reload for an autorifle.

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  • Tugaloo
    replied
    Never forget the ultimate operator, Santa

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    ROTFL!!

    My grandson was a superb brass goblin!!

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  • Armyjimbo
    replied
    I have noticed that! As to collecting "Range brass" check out the Brass Goblin. My friend normally is forced to bring his kids out when he comes to the range here, so I got then some nice reusable bags to collect what they can.

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  • Tugaloo
    replied
    Same here as I police up any brass, I find at the range and sort them. Some end up it the old Wolf blasting ammo class or MOT (minute of torso) stuff.

    BTW, did you ever notice?

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  • Armyjimbo
    replied
    I have one too, but also have a Hornady Camlock Puller. The amazing thing is the price difference between the 2. 2$ plus the collets. I generally use the hammer on pistol and the camlock on rifle stuff.

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  • Tugaloo
    replied
    Originally posted by Garand View Post
    a kinetic (sp?) bullet puller.
    Spelling is correct.

    Mine is from the 70s and it has been a very good friend when in need.





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  • Armyjimbo
    replied
    Odd I've ben recycling my .223 rem, 6.5 grendel, and .308 win in semis no issues. BUT I do anneal every 5 shots.

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  • Garand
    replied
    When I started reloading .30-06 for my Garand in 1986, I didn't buy small base dies initially. After the first couple of range visits I was quick to buy a set, along with a kinetic (sp?) bullet puller.

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  • Armyjimbo
    replied
    Sorry to dispute you, I dont need to SBD my brass, the only time I do is for when the RCMP use our range, I then make a brass goblin and pick up all their leave behinds. Once I deprime with my standard die, i relube, run it through the SBD, as then theres less chance of sticking brass. Swage the primer pockets, I then treat it like normal brass. I dont use it on the brass again. I don't have any issues on my semis at all.

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  • Dorobuta
    replied
    Originally posted by Garand View Post
    Actually, I am very satisfied using IMR 4895 when reloading 5.56, .308, & .30/06.
    4895 is one of my favorites - right now it is hard to get, since Canada closed the border (more or less). Once it is available again, I guess I'll buy a few 8 pounders - I use enough of it to justify the cost.

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  • Garand
    replied
    Quality reloads, provide quality reloads on the firing line.

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  • Dorobuta
    replied
    I don’t load hot rounds, I load accurate rounds. The hottest rarely are the most accurate.

    using a SB die is a must. A case checker is required. I check all my cases as I prep them, and trim as necessary.

    my workflow is:

    all brass goes in dump pouch at the range.
    when I get back from the range, it goes in the dirty brass bucket.
    eventually I will scoop a coffee cans worth and toss it in the cleaner
    then I’ll sort the brass into the clean buckets by caliber
    then eventually I’ll decide to prep a bunch of cases in some caliber
    ill grab a bunch, lube them with a mixture of lanolin and isopropyl alcohol (electronics grade)
    then I’ll size them and drop them in the case checker.
    within spec goes in a prepped ammo can
    out of spec goes into a prepped out of speck ammo can
    eventually I’ll decide I have enough to trim and they get trimmed and put into the prepped can
    after a while, I get the desire to prime the cases. I’ll sit down with a hand priming tool and prime them
    primmed cases go into a primed ammo can
    eventually I’ll decide to make finished rounds
    charges are weighed on a hornaday electric dispenser
    while I’m seating one round the powder is being thrown for the next one
    rounds go in a loaded round ammo can.

    these steps are done over the course of days, weeks, or months.

    I can load a surprising a mount of ammo this way, and it is relaxing, can stop at any step.
    Last edited by Dorobuta; 06-07-2021, 02:32 PM.

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  • Garand
    replied
    Actually, I am very satisfied using IMR 4895 when reloading 5.56, .308, & .30/06.

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  • registror
    started a topic if you reload for an autorifle.

    if you reload for an autorifle.

    you're going to need a small-base sizing die, from RCBS. Without out, you'll have failures to chamber fully and those can be real nightmares. You'll also need to check the case length, since the looser chamber specs necessary in an auto "stretch" the brass more. If you dont trim the cases to length, then deburr the mouth both inside and out, you can't crimp the case into the bullet and if you dont crimp the bullet, you CAN get bullets setting back upon impact with the feed ramp. it's rare, but if you're hot-loading the ammo, it's a risk you dont want to take. To be able to crimp cases soft or hollowpoints, you need a canneluring tool. To seal the ammo vs moisture, lube and solvents, you need model airpline "dope' and a camel's hair paint brush. Run a line of the dope around the primer and the case mouth. This seals the rd very nicely. I favor AA 25-20 for max effort loads in short 223 barrels, but Winchester 748 works fine for practice ammo. Avoid H414, it's too dirty.
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