if you reload for an autorifle.

[Tugaloo]

Never forget the ultimate operator, Santa

goblin

ROTFL!!

My grandson was a superb brass goblin!!

[Armyjimbo]

I have noticed that! As to collecting "Range brass" check out the Brass Goblin. My friend normally is forced to bring his kids out when he comes to the range here, so I got then some nice reusable bags to collect what they can.

[Tugaloo]

Same here as I police up any brass, I find at the range and sort them. Some end up it the old Wolf blasting ammo class or MOT (minute of torso) stuff.

BTW, did you ever notice?

[Armyjimbo]

I have one too, but also have a Hornady Camlock Puller. The amazing thing is the price difference between the 2. 2$ plus the collets. I generally use the hammer on pistol and the camlock on rifle stuff.

[Tugaloo]

a kinetic (sp?) bullet puller.

Spelling is correct.

Mine is from the 70s and it has been a very good friend when in need.

[Armyjimbo]

Odd I've ben recycling my .223 rem, 6.5 grendel, and .308 win in semis no issues. BUT I do anneal every 5 shots.

[Garand]

When I started reloading .30-06 for my Garand in 1986, I didn't buy small base dies initially. After the first couple of range visits I was quick to buy a set, along with a kinetic (sp?) bullet puller.

[Armyjimbo]

Sorry to dispute you, I dont need to SBD my brass, the only time I do is for when the RCMP use our range, I then make a brass goblin and pick up all their leave behinds. Once I deprime with my standard die, i relube, run it through the SBD, as then theres less chance of sticking brass. Swage the primer pockets, I then treat it like normal brass. I dont use it on the brass again. I don't have any issues on my semis at all.

[Dorobuta]

Actually, I am very satisfied using IMR 4895 when reloading 5.56, .308, & .30/06.

4895 is one of my favorites - right now it is hard to get, since Canada closed the border (more or less). Once it is available again, I guess I'll buy a few 8 pounders - I use enough of it to justify the cost.

[Garand]

Quality reloads, provide quality reloads on the firing line.

[Dorobuta]

I don’t load hot rounds, I load accurate rounds. The hottest rarely are the most accurate.

using a SB die is a must. A case checker is required. I check all my cases as I prep them, and trim as necessary.

my workflow is:

all brass goes in dump pouch at the range.
when I get back from the range, it goes in the dirty brass bucket.
eventually I will scoop a coffee cans worth and toss it in the cleaner
then I’ll sort the brass into the clean buckets by caliber
then eventually I’ll decide to prep a bunch of cases in some caliber
ill grab a bunch, lube them with a mixture of lanolin and isopropyl alcohol (electronics grade)
then I’ll size them and drop them in the case checker.
within spec goes in a prepped ammo can
out of spec goes into a prepped out of speck ammo can
eventually I’ll decide I have enough to trim and they get trimmed and put into the prepped can
after a while, I get the desire to prime the cases. I’ll sit down with a hand priming tool and prime them
primmed cases go into a primed ammo can
eventually I’ll decide to make finished rounds
charges are weighed on a hornaday electric dispenser
while I’m seating one round the powder is being thrown for the next one
rounds go in a loaded round ammo can.

these steps are done over the course of days, weeks, or months.

I can load a surprising a mount of ammo this way, and it is relaxing, can stop at any step.

[Garand]

Actually, I am very satisfied using IMR 4895 when reloading 5.56, .308, & .30/06.

[registror]

you're going to need a small-base sizing die, from RCBS. Without out, you'll have failures to chamber fully and those can be real nightmares. You'll also need to check the case length, since the looser chamber specs necessary in an auto "stretch" the brass more. If you dont trim the cases to length, then deburr the mouth both inside and out, you can't crimp the case into the bullet and if you dont crimp the bullet, you CAN get bullets setting back upon impact with the feed ramp. it's rare, but if you're hot-loading the ammo, it's a risk you dont want to take. To be able to crimp cases soft or hollowpoints, you need a canneluring tool. To seal the ammo vs moisture, lube and solvents, you need model airpline "dope' and a camel's hair paint brush. Run a line of the dope around the primer and the case mouth. This seals the rd very nicely. I favor AA 25-20 for max effort loads in short 223 barrels, but Winchester 748 works fine for practice ammo. Avoid H414, it's too dirty.