No announcement yet.

Ammo shelf live???

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by Big Guy View Post
    Orville and Wilbur were told that it can not be done.
    Magellan was told that it can not be done.
    The list goes on about folks that were told it can not be done.

    There are folks out there who take the words "It can not be done" as a challenge.

    Hell I've done things, just because I was told "it can not be done"



    • #17
      There was some politician talk of such crap several years back so folks could not rathole ammo and there is a bit of truth in shortened life but not for the reason indicated.

      1. Ammo loaded to MILSPEC at Lake City (LC) has waterproofed primers and mouth lacquer to make the ammo last many years and reliable under extreme field conditions of
      - 65F to + 165F rain, snow, mud, dust etc. At LC as it is manufactured it is canned and placed in wirebounds and sealed. The rule of thumb is if the seal on the crate is intact the ammo projected life is 125 years. If cans have been opened 75 years.

      2. Air is the enemy of ammo (specifically primers) and air containing higher humidity deteriorates ammo (primers) quicker.

      3. Commercial ammo used to have waterproofed primers sometimes with red, or blue sealant and lastly it was clear. My contact at a major manufacturer told me a couple months back that they stopped adding the primer sealant several years ago thus storing commercially loaded ammo in original packaging will have a shorter life of years and not decades.

      4. If you have ammo commercially loaded or handloaded it is best stored in GI ammo cans.

      5. Most important if you reload and have primers they should be stored in ammo cans as well. I have noticed the Russian Wolf primers come sealed in plastic bags which is better than nothing but not as good as GI ammo cans.

      6. You can increase ammo life by painting head of your cases with clear nail polish. Guess you could use pink but your buds will give you hell for sure haha. At any rate paint heads with clean nail polish making sure to get it around the crevace of the primer pocket. IMPORTANT wipe off excess polish by dragging it across news paper which should leave the polish intact around primer and removing from case head.

      7. You can pretty well bet ammo loaded in last ten years if exposed to the rain is likely to die quickly so the old addage of "Keep your powder dry" is still applicable.

      8. Primers will deteriorate and first indication may be vertical dispersion of groups at long range. Next will be occasion misfire. This is hard to judge because hammer/striker springs can take a set and lose energy and the ignition reliability is compromised accordingly. The alloweable misfire rate for new perfect primers is one in a million.

      If your weapon is marginal energy misfires may occur occasionally and first thing to do is replace striker spring.

      Remember primers require two things for reliable ignition. Speed and energy. Reduce one of these and you are into bad territory. Also you may experience a click-bang where you sense the click before the shot is fired. If this happens you are in serious problems.

      It should be noted that every vendor in the industry has had ignition problems at one time or another.

      Wolff Springs is the ones I get and keep in stock.

      Measuring firing pin energy is not possible for 99.99999% of the folks. The copper holders run like 155.00 last one I bought in 2002 time frame. The coppers are extremely rare. I have coppers and holders for 5.56, 7.62 and 30.06

      Bottom line is just because ammo goes bang doesn't mean all is well. It is like your wife smiling at you, doesn't mean she is completely happy with you right? haha.

      So if you are thinking long term survival first order of business is get MILSPEC ammo in cans and don't open it. You can also determine if ammo is deterriorated by chronographing say 30 rounds and record the temp at firing. Then in five years conduct same test and if your extreme spread/standard deviation increases you know you are getting deterrioration. At close range it will be hard to determine but as indicated longer ranges vertical dispersion comes into play.

      A 100 feet per second extreme spread in 30 cal ammo will give you 40"of elevation at 1000 yards. The X ring is 10 inches and 10 ring is 20 inches so right there if you are a perfect machine rest shooter you are going to lose shots high and low and you can't help it. The best long range shooters want ES down about 15 fps and SD around 5 to 7 both of which are hard to achieve. Make that very hard.

      Next to consider is propellant deterrioration which kind of goes hand in hand with primer deterrioration and acts same way.

      Forgot another thing to be avoided is letting your ammo get hot such as in a vehicle in summer time. You can take ammo to minus 65 and back with little or no detrimental effects but get it hot, things will happen. All our ammo we did not shoot in high temp testing was destroyed at Aberdeen PG but ammo that went to 140+ was destroyed by burning.

      Bottom line guys is getting ammo to last long term not loaded to US MILSPEC is going to be iffy but can be done if you are meticulous in your preps.
      Last edited by Hummer; 01-09-2013, 10:22 PM.
      Distinguished Rifleman High Power , Distinguished Rifleman Smallbore Prone, Presidents Hundred (Rifle), Palma Teams Member (2), Dewar Teams Member (2), Member 4 Man National Championship Smallbore AnySight Team, Certified Small Arms and Ammunition Test Director Aberdeen Proving Ground , Eagle Scout, AC4HT, NRA Benefactor Member, Firefighter I, Shriner