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150 gr. FMJ .308

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  • 150 gr. FMJ .308

    Was wondering how wolf brand ammo. performs I know the best ammo for .308 is 168 bthp by federal gold match but I can get wolf cheaper and lots of it.

  • #2
    Originally posted by txcorruptor View Post
    Was wondering how wolf brand ammo. performs I know the best ammo for .308 is 168 bthp by federal gold match but I can get wolf cheaper and lots of it.
    Is that standard wolf with steel cases or the Wolf Gold that is brass cased?

    This is my favorite for factory stuff.

    Last edited by Rustyshakelford; 02-07-2009, 11:51 PM.


    • #3

      Steel case fmj LOL. I found some british .308 nato I assume it will work and it is by the 500rd cases


      • #4
        British Radway green is damn good ammo. The Wolf you are talking about works just fine and is fairly accurate. The only problem is the lacquerd casing causing problems in bolt guns with tight chambers and tolerances. The other downside is that its a little dirty when you shoot it. But how hard is it to clean your weapon anyway?


        • #5
          It would depend on what you're shooting it out of. Some people have been reporting case head separations when shooting steel cased Wolf in auto loaders. (there's been several posts about it over on

          The brass cased Wolf is supposed to be almost on par with Privi Match.....fairly good stuff, but by no stretch of the imagination real match grade. The steel cased should get you to around 3-4 MOA. The brass cased should get you closer to handloads are even cheaper than the steel cased Wolf....about 32 cents per round. I've been seeing .6-.75 MOA at 100 yds out of my Remington 5R.

          Personally, I don't have anything against Wolf--I've shot pallets of it out of SKSs and AKs, but 100% of my .308 shooting is precision rifle now, and Wolf just isn't up to my accuracy standards.

          **My only bad Wolf experience: I found numerous cracked necks when shooting Wolf .223 in an AR with a Wylde chamber....never had any problems with Radway or Guat surplus in that gun. To Wolf's credit, they bought the remaining ammo from me with no questions asked--any company that stands so firmly behind their product is great in my book!

          If your gun can handle it, it's fine for plinking, but that's all I'd ever use it for. Here's something to keep in mind: Because the steel cases crack instead of stretching like brass does, you could have a very expensive and very dangerous situation if your chamber isn't just right. If you're gonna shoot it, inspect your empty cases thoroughly....if they're not cracking, you're good to go. If they are.....stick with brass.

          As posted earlier, Winchester makes pretty good 147gr 7.62--and the brass is reloadable too. That's almost all I ever used in my FALs.

          Just my opinion, based on my own research and experiences. I'm not a professional gunsmith---just a hobby 'smith and reloader who spends a lot of time at the range.;)


          • #6
            Just my 2 cents and I have been thinking about this for a while:
            Most surplus is brass cased, but berdan primed, either corrosive, or mildly corrosive, some even say non-corrosive, but... always treat is as corrosive to be safe.. The surplus that is boxer primed is newer, and being used, and is hard to find and expensive if you find it.

            For normal plinking, or target shooting, I prefer brass case, boxer primers so I can collect the brass to reload or to sell to others that reload.

            For SHTF situations, steel cased ammo - if it fires from your firearm without problems, is fine, normally cheaper (unless you reload yourself, but you still need time and components), and if you can hit what you aim for, it will do its job. I wouldn't expect to use it for 1000+ yard shots, but at 200-600 yards you still should be able to hit a person sized target.

            If I have someone shooting back at me, I don't think I will be worried about picking up my brass, I just want to be flinging lead back at them. The more I have to fling back the better, so when wolf is cheaper, I buy it. I have seen some surplus cheaper, but I try and stay away from corrosive, because in match rifles, or gas rifles, if I miss cleaning something, I don't want to screw up my rifle, and gas system cleaning is not always the easiest to do when in a hurry. Rust can happen over night, or even in a few hours depending on the corrosiveness and humidity.

            Best thoughts:

            1. Have enough ammo first for your rifle(s). Depending on use, make sure you have some of the best for it you can. Not saying you need 5000 rounds of the most expensive match ammo, but having an AK with match ammo is crazy when wolf will shoot just as well. If you have a sniper rifle with crappy ammo its not worth having the sniper rifle either. Try and match the ammo to the gun, but if you have a sniper rifle, have a second (or third) for other uses. Just remember to have enough ammo. 50 rounds for any gun will not last long when you need it.

            2. Test whatever ammo you have in your rifle. 5 rounds, 10 rounds, even 50 may not be enough to make sure it will function fine. For pistol carry they say test with 200 rounds of what you intend to carry, and retest every 6 month. Ok, I don't do that, but I do shoot at least 100 rounds to get used to the weapon, check all magazines for flaws, and if I get a hick-up on ammo, I check to see if it is ammo, or firearm, and fix what I can. What good is ammo and a gun if they don't work together. Test all mags. Some will work, some wont. Again, no good having ammo and gun if you can't load use them together.

            3. Practice. You may not be able to burn the 308 or 50 bmg up as you should need to practice, but fire off a few rounds, then pick up that 22lr and shoot a brick. Any practice is still better than none.

            More to come later, but that is a good start. Personally I stocked up on 223 Radway green. I need 308 and have a few cans, but have tested wolf and they work, so I need to get more. I have 22lr. Now I need more time to shoot.


            • #7
              I have fired the steel cased Wolf ammo out of my Mini 14 and Bushmaster AR. In both rifles about 1 in 3 cases came out with a crack 1/2 halfway down the casing. They feed fine and seem to shoot ok, but if the cases are cracked like that it would lead me to believe ther are some tolerance issues.


              • #8
                Dittos on the lacquer build up from COMBLOC ammo. Get enough of it and you are most likely going to lose an extractor as the chamber gets built up and case does not want to extract. Having an extractor go down in a survival situation in some weapons will deadline the rifle as the average person cannot change an extractor on their personal weapon and very few folks have the parts on hand to do so.

                They use a term on COMBLOC ammo bullets called "copper washed" which is just enough copper on the steel bullet jacket so it hopefully won't rust till it clears the muzzle.

                The problem with copper wash is it is not thick enough to last till the projectile clears the muzzle and last half of the barrel it is steel on steel.

                I borescoped a barrel last year that had copper washed ammo in it for 5000 rounds and the lands were worn down even with the grooves. When I ran the borescope in the chamber end of the barrel it showed perfectly normal throat from there for a few inches down the barrel but when I switched ends and looked in muzzle it was if the barrel had never been rifled! ! ! ! ! It was exceptionally smooth from the steel laps (bullet jackets) going by and the barrel had a mirror finish ! ! ! ! !

                The muzzle end of the barrel was obviously bigger than the chamber end as when itd becomes larger than rest of the barrel the bullets just kind of hits the walls here and there and your accuracy has just gone out the window.

                Yes NATO STANAG allows for steel jacket ammo but it is called CCGM (copper clad gilding metal) and it is about .005" thick and rifling is about .004" high so the rifling won't cut all the way through before bullet clears muzzle. With copper wash the material is much thinner thus the copper is gone well before the bullet clears your muzzle.

                COMBLOC is indeed much cheaper to shoot but you are risking taking out your barrel much earlier.

                Thus you have something to think about of how much money you are saving while you are ruining your barrel.

                I kind of look at it this way, I hate to shoot something I cannot reload.

                I like the Priv Partisan brass. In a good tight chamber it is reloadable many times.

                I got a can of 7.62X54 about twenty years back before Privi Partisan made boxed primed brass affordable and Normal was the only brass which was way out of my budget. I pulled the bullets, (brass cases) and neck sized the cases and reduced the propellant charge and seated in hunting bullets made here.

                I kept the pulled bullets to use for the first few rounds on new barrels as break in bullets as I knew they were steel jackets. A couple years ago a friend got some 308 Wolf brass case hunting ammo and I asked him to check them with a magnet. He had a new Savage 308 which didn't need anything and I traded him box for box so I could use them for breaking in barrels I would be putting on new.
                Last edited by Hummer; 03-29-2012, 07:18 AM.
                Distinguished Rifleman High Power , Distinguished Rifleman Smallbore Prone, Presidents Hundred (Rifle), Palma Teams Member (2), Dewar Teams Member (2), Member 4 Man National Championship Smallbore AnySight Team, Certified Small Arms and Ammunition Test Director Aberdeen Proving Ground , Eagle Scout, AC4HT, NRA Benefactor Member, Firefighter I, Shriner



                • #9
                  I've fired it in an m-4 and a 1911. Worked fine in both.