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pre-burying food is problematic, due to dogs and bears.

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  • pre-burying food is problematic, due to dogs and bears.

    you can put down a big circle of fiberglass mesh netting and stop the dogs from digging, but not bears. Post shtf, you can set snares for dogs and bears, but dong so before shtf is likely to cause you lots of legal or neighbor trouble. If you do so, it can't be traps that let the dog howl. You have to lag-bolt a bucket horizontally to the bottom of a tree trunk. have wire mesh across an 8" hole in the bottom of the bucket. Many dogs wont stick their head into a dark hole. Bait the bottom of the bucket, cut a slit in the side of the bucket, and run the cable snare loop from 6 ft up on the tree trunk into the slit, opening it inside of the bucket. Rig the trigger to a bungee strap, which will pull-tight the snare loop. No yelping, or howling the, you see. Foot long chunks of 1/4" wall-thickness, 8" OD pipe from the scrap yard can have holes drilled into it a a 30 degree angle from the long axis of the pipe. Weld some 60 penny spikes down into the holes, so that a bear can force his paw past them, but then he'll get hung up as he tries to withdraw said paw. Cable the pipe off to a 200 lbs of drag log(s) (for black bears, 400 lbs of such logs for grizzlies) and bury the cable. Bury the pipe vertically, flush with the surface, with some bacon grease, fish guts, honey, peanut butter at the bottom of the hole. Check traps daily and BEWARE the bear sets, cause a trapped bear is extremely dangerous. and might have moved that log 1/4 mile or more. Be super ready to fire multiple centerifre rifle shots at his head, ideally with a silencer mounted. Ideally, set and services these traps at night, with night vision and passive IR to show you where the animal is. Bears have unbelievable strength and will probably snap any cable you can hook to a tree or boulder. Then, when (not if) somebody notices the trap on the bear, (or dog) your crap is going to be weak. even if it IS post shtf and woe betide you if the dog is a beloved pet before shtf. Dragging the log is likely to dislocate the bear's leg-joint, rendering him unable to travel far or fast. This is MUCH more likely to happen with moose or elk, tho.

  • #2
    the above is why I'm only willing to pre-bury the small-scented, last forever, very cheap food, like powdered milk, sugar, koolaid, grains, molasses, etc, Keep the molasses away from everything else, since it's scented and does spoil after 10 years. BRING the honey, veggie oil, nut butter, spices, seeds, etc, when you bugout, walking alongside of the bicycle. Have empty drums waiting for those goods and more waiting for the dried fish and beef/venison/dog jerky you'll be making.


    • #3
      burying anything here is a problem unless its on our own property, come back post SHTF and you'll probably find a new house built on top of it.


      • #4
        not if you're paying attention to what makes for a good cache area. Dont cache anything on private land. Stick to stare and fed parks, or land owned by lumber, RR, utility, paper, mining companies.


        • #5
          I agree with the fact that only dehydrated food with a long shelf life (20+ years) should be packed in a buried cache. Particularly if it is in #10 cans. Other items could be put in metal ammunition boxes after the contents have been sealed with a food saver vacuum machine. Any farm equipment store will have large plastic water storage containers of various sizes that larger quantities of food can be stored in and buried. One thought would be if on your own property, put a pole barn/wood shed overtop. This would identify if someone has found your cache and in colder climates the ground would not freeze as bad in the winter months, plus you can always keep an eye on it. If stocking a large amount of dehydrated food, always ensure it comes from multiple manufacturers. That way if one product spoils your whole cache is not compromised.